HERBS OF THE FOREST- Cultivating a Forest Garden
When I am in the woods I feel serene and well. There is a special “quiet” in the forest that the soughing of trees in the breeze, the chittering critters, and the warbling birds seems to reinforce in my soul. When I walk in the forest- whether alone, with a friend or a favorite pet- I am enveloped in the music of life. Memories of childhood woodland forages, rocky forts, and quiet pools awaken in all of us possibilities that the forest can still endow. Protection of a leafy canopy provides an invitation to the maturation of many medicinal HERBS; the loamy soil provides nutrition and moisture that many HERBS love. Harvesting HERBS from the forest is a time-honored tradition that has, unfortunately become commercialized to the point that many of our most precious plants have become endangered. Harvesting forest plants has become contentious in many areas. Commercial Foragers have caused us to see our natural areas as places we want to protect, not deplete. “Forest Farming” (cultivation of understory crops within an established forest) has become prevalent since we have noticed that many HERBS have become overharvested and endangered. If you have a wooded area on your property, you might consider cultivating a naturalized HERB garden among the leafy bowers. HERB Naturals may be those you will harvest for roots; aerial parts like stems, leaves, and flowers; or fruits and nuts. You may already have HERBAL trees established in your woods; others you may want to plant.
“Anatomy” of the Forest
Stand back, and look at a forest. What do you see? Over 500 shades of green? Ah, yes. Those shades are actually delineated and perceived by varying layers of light. Light filtering through the highest plants regulates the kind, number, and diversity of plant life beneath. There are seven-some say eight- growth layers in the Forest.
Upper Story Trees The 1st layer is the tall tree canopy, the “over story”, the highest and tallest sun loving plants that begin to create shade. Canopy Trees are the Grandfathers of the Forest. They establish the heavenly boundary of the Forest and are the backbone of Forest Health. We can add new trees to this canopy, but must do so without disturbing the present ecology. Canopy trees may be deciduous, like the (Sugar) Maple that provides shelter for Ginseng; Nut- producing like the Oak; or Conifer- like Cedar and Juniper. The canopy can be as high as 80 feet. The overall height of your wooded area determines the amount of shade produced therein. Distribution of the understory layers will reflect incremental shading; ground layers will have fewer extremes in mature height. Trees that will add HERBAL value to your garden are: Red and White Oak, Poplar, Cedar, Tupelo, Slippery Elm, Prickly Ash, Ginkgo, Horse Chestnut, Cucumber Magnolia, Bay Laurel, Black Walnut, Linden, White Pine, Silver Birch, and Juniper.
Understory trees will be part of this garden too. This 2nd layer is the low tree/ high shrub layer, trees that are tolerant of partial shade and fit under the over story canopy. Many times these are fruit trees or young over story trees that will extend higher after a disturbance or an opening occurs in the canopy. Some large shrubs can be pruned to a tree form. Mulberry is an example of an understory tree, which tolerates partial shade, grows quickly, and produces well. Think also of Hawthorn, Elder, Sumac, Pomegranate, Witch Hazel, Mimosa, Sassafras, Persimmon, Black Haw, Peach, Cherry, Willow, Hazel, Vitex, and Neem.
The 3rd Layer is the Shrub Layer of the forest garden. This layer consists of both deciduous and coniferous plants which are shorter in stature and fit beneath the canopy layers. “Incremental shade” is the catch phrase of this layer- with some being tucked deeply under the canopy for full shade, while others dot the paths and enjoy more light. It should be noted that although light tolerance is specified for many plants, it may also be a requirement for other plants. Some plants require full sun or require full shade. When placing new shrubs, be mindful of this necessity for light and shade. Even though plants may tolerate greater light, they may be more productive in deeper shade- especially in areas that foster blistering summer sunshine. Hawthorn, Sumac, Witch Hazel, Elder, Mimosa, Sassafras, Pomegranate, Peach, Cherry, Willow, Hazel, Vitex, and Neem also belong in this group during their young lives. The 3rd layer may also include taller perennials such as Cup Plant and Anise Hyssop – with the additional consideration of plants such as Siberian Ginseng, American ginseng, True Solomon’s Seal, False Solomon’s seal, Mahonia, Black Cohosh, Wolf Berry, Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Dan Shen, May-apple, False Unicorn root, Licorice, and- perhaps best known- Goldenseal. Depending on your soil and shade, these plants can also inhabit the HERB Layer, below.
The 4th layer is the HERB Layer. Closer to the ground, this level provides food for animals and beneficial insects that add to the ecology of the forest. This is an area that you can plan or expand at a glance- filling in the gaps between the trees and shrubs with sunlight or shade loving HERBS. This layer has the greatest diversity based on terrain and shade level, so it is the most productive harvest layer for Medicinal HERBS. Plant density is no problem because the balance remains with the inclusion and removal of plants. This is the most straightforward level in which to facilitate your Forest Garden. Leafy HERBS, such as American ginseng, True Solomon’s Seal, False Solomon’s Seal, Yellowroot, Wild Ginger, Rhubarb, Sweet Woodruff, Trillium, Ferns, Squaw Vine, Ramps, Mahonia, Black Cohosh, Wolf Berry, Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Rehmannia, May-apple, False Unicorn root, Large-leaved Aster, Licorice, Sarsaparilla, Korean Mint, Artemisia, Ground or Princess Pine, and Goldenseal here will accommodate variations in terrain and shade.
The ground cover layer is the 5th layer in the forest garden. HERBS here hug the earth and spread laterally to cover the soil. HERBS in this layer meander within the HERBACEOUS Layer, around and about shrubs and trees, following light or shade. This is the layer that connects all others at the soil surface. Here, HERBS retain soil and lessen erosion; they provide green manures to add nutrients and organic matter to the soil- especially nitrogen. Grasses will grow here, but will not prosper due to competition from ground-hugging HERBS like Wild Ginger, Sweet Woodruff, Squawvine, Starflower, Wintergreen, Wild Strawberry, Cleavers, Thyme, Roman Chamomile, and Lady’s Bedstraw.
The 6th layer winds its way up toward the canopy. This Vine Layer utilizes the horizontal strength of the upper layers to move toward the light. Careful watch of Vining HERBS keeps them from interfering with host plants. Vines spread both laterally and horizontally-saving space. Vine crops are valued since they take little space and extend the growing area. HERBS such as Fo-ti/ He Shou Wu, Cleavers, Squawvine, Passionflower, Snakeroot, Dodder, Japanese Honeysuckle, and Virginia Creeper wind both out and up.
The 7th layer is the “Rhizosphere” or Root Layer. This interesting layer undergirds all others- nourishing, watering, aerating, storing, and spacing. Often forgotten, if the Root Layer is not considered, HERBS above cannot thrive. Roots spread in three dimensions, defining the spaces and voids of the underlayment. Roots are nutritious and dense; can be left (in situ) until needed; and convey minerals from deep soil layers to the surface. Roots are natural spacers- evening out plant populations of the upper stories. Roots may be fibrous- running close to the surface; or narrow and deep “tapping” into the lower strata. Many HERB roots grow for years before harvest. Others must be harvested annually to assure healthy plants. HERBS from any of the layers- especially roots- affect the other layers. Examples of Root HERBS are Ginseng, Black and Blue Cohosh, Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes, Bloodroot, Yellowroot, Goldenseal, False Solomon’s Seal, and Ginger.
Fungi are thought to be the Eighth Layer. Found throughout the Forest, in deepest shade, mushrooms live as saprophytes and are secondary decomposers. Many are edible; some are valued as Medicinal. Shiitake Mushrooms are found in 60% shade on oak logs. Maitake Mushrooms can be found at the base of deciduous (oak) trees. Reishi can be found at the base of large trees or fallen logs- near springs. Chaga Mushrooms are found near streams on (Yellow) Birch trees. If you have the perfect place, Medicinal mushrooms can be inoculated within your Forest Garden.
[Robert Hart, who rediscovered this ancient way of gardening - developed a seven layer forest-garden model.]
Considerations for a Forest Garden:
Height Levels: Forests have “stories.” Upper story trees knit their canopies together- providing solid shade. Understory trees benefit from that shade and provide even deeper shade for earth-loving HERBS. Leafy HERBS grow along the ground below the trees – along streams, between rocks, along pathways, and on slopes.
Thickness of the Canopy: will determine the amount of shade the garden will provide. For the most part, plants like Ginseng, Black and Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Partridgeberry, Goldenseal, May-apple, Trillium, Jiaogulan, and Mushrooms require an almost sealed canopy (heaviest shade) to develop. Shade dependent herbs can be cultivated under most deciduous trees.
Soil pH: Plants that we consider “evergreen” like Holly, Gardenia, Camellia, Magnolia, Laurel, Rhododendron, Azalea –with leathery leaves- prefer acidic pH.
“Most plant species of interest in forest farming perform best in the pH range from 5-7, but a few are “acidophiles” (acid loving) such as blueberries which prefer pH in the range of 4-5. Although H+ ion (pH) is not a nutrient per se, soil pH has important effects on availability of soil nutrients. The effects of pH on availability of Iron and Calcium in particular are of greatest consequence for Forest Farming. As pH increases, the availability of Iron declines. In sensitive species this causes interveinal chlorosis (yellowing) (e.g. pin oak, silver maple). Availability of Calcium on the other hand increases as soil pH increases from acidic to alkaline. In field agricultural systems, the pH of acidic soils are often increased by addition of lime [Ca(CO3)2] and the pH of alkaline soils is sometimes deliberately decreased (acidified) by addition of acidic organic matter such as [coffee grounds,] peat moss, or elemental sulfur (soil bacteria convert it to sulfuric acid). Deliberate alteration of soil pH is rarely practical in forest farming, but the ambient soil pH is worth knowing since it can affect your choice of non- timber forest crops. If your site is topographically variable (hilly) be sure to test pH in multiple locations since it can vary considerably between bottomland and upland soils.” [Cornell.edu]
Under coniferous forests, growth is more difficult because shade levels are too dense, the soil is too acidic, and conifer needles may be toxic to some plants.
Harvest Requirements: You should decide whether your garden will be for private enjoyment or for commercial use. This will mostly depend on how much wooded land you have available. I can think of nothing more serene than a wooded area with a small stream, several rocky paths, planted with health-giving HERBS like Black Cohosh, Goldenseal, True Solomon’s Seal, Ramps, Trillium, May-apple, and a few Ginseng. However, your property may be large enough to consider cultivation of these same plants on a commercial scale. “Forest farming” is a form of forest land management system known as “agroforestry.” It may take place in a natural forest or in a timber planting. Forest farming can be a sustainable production system which helps keep a forest healthy by introducing more biodiversity. Forest farming does not generally refer to the trees that may be grown for pulp or timber- only to the crops grown amongst the trees. Of course, many trees produce fruit, nuts, and fungi- also commercially appealing. Almost any plant or fungus that needs shade can be grown in a forest farming system. The most common crops are medicinal herbs like Ginseng, Goldenseal, Black Cohosh, Bloodroot, Passionflower, and May apple- and Mushrooms like Shiitake, Maitake, Chaga, and Reishi.
Individual Plant Needs: This can encompass degrees of shade, moisture, light, and nutrition. An ideal soil is a loam with high organic matter. Collect soil samples from prospective sites and have them analyzed for nutritional status. Our soils are often quite acid and low in phosphate. Ginseng will benefit from having the soil Ph elevated to about 5.5 and having additional phosphate added. You should also have the soil tested for nematodes. (Root knot nematodes cause galls on both ginseng and goldenseal; will slow growth of the plants; and may render the roots unsalable.)
“New plantings can be started with seeds, seedlings or cuttings from a reliable supplier. Replicate the plant’s native growing habitat as closely as possible- type of soil, garden location and watering requirements. Start any new medicinal HERB in containers placed in different locations in your Forest environment. HERBS typically perform better without any added fertilization. The key is to establish a plant- friendly soil environment and let the plant go. While we can control the growing conditions of an HERB, there are other factors that also impact the medicinal content. Wild plants typically deal with a variety of stresses, including pests, environmental toxins and root capacity competition. These stresses sometimes lead the plant to develop defense mechanisms. And these defense mechanisms can lead to the production of the substances in the plant that provide the healthy benefits to us. These stress conditions are much harder to simulate in a cultivated environment, so once they are established, you should let your HERBS go to fend for themselves. Don’t fertilize and don’t worry about pests. Resistance makes HERBS stronger.”
[Excerpted: J.D. Bell-Bell Back 400]
Remember, you don’t have to do it all at once. Forests have taken thousands of years to grow. Keep the final plant list to a minimum for the initial placement of the HERBS to help build a functional structure. After the initial 9 to 12 species are in place- including the over story HERBS, a number of HERB shrubs, companion perennial HERBS, and a groundcover HERB- other HERBS can be added.
Growing Your Forest Garden
Good News! Anyone with a bit of land can grow a forest garden. Forest gardeners use the forest as a model of structure and function, while adapting the design to focus on meeting their needs in a small space. Forest gardening is not necessarily gardening in the forest, it is gardening like the forest. Forest Gardens have been created in small urban yards and large parks, on suburban lots, and in small plots on rural farms. While you can grow a forest garden in almost any climate, it is easiest if you do it in a region where the native vegetation is forest, especially deciduous forest. You don't need to have an existing woodland if you want a forest garden; although you can certainly work with one. Creating a Forest Garden is not only ecological; it is also spiritual. Think of all those shades of Green!
When I am in the woods I feel serene and well. There is a special “quiet” in the forest that the soughing of trees in the breeze, the chittering critters, and the warbling birds seems to reinforce in my soul. When I walk in the forest- whether alone, with a friend or a favorite pet- I am enveloped in the music of life. Memories of childhood woodland forages, rocky forts, and quiet pools awaken in all of us possibilities that the forest can still endow. Protection of a leafy canopy provides an invitation to the maturation of many medicinal HERBS; the loamy soil provides nutrition and moisture that many HERBS love. Harvesting HERBS from the forest is a time-honored tradition that has, unfortunately become commercialized to the point that many of our most precious plants have become endangered. Harvesting forest plants has become contentious in many areas. Commercial Foragers have caused us to see our natural areas as places we want to protect, not deplete. “Forest Farming” (cultivation of understory crops within an established forest) has become prevalent since we have noticed that many HERBS have become overharvested and endangered. If you have a wooded area on your property, you might consider cultivating a naturalized HERB garden among the leafy bowers. HERB Naturals may be those you will harvest for roots; aerial parts like stems, leaves, and flowers; or fruits and nuts. You may already have HERBAL trees established in your woods; others you may want to plant.
“Anatomy” of the Forest
Stand back, and look at a forest. What do you see? Over 500 shades of green? Ah, yes. Those shades are actually delineated and perceived by varying layers of light. Light filtering through the highest plants regulates the kind, number, and diversity of plant life beneath. There are seven-some say eight- growth layers in the Forest.
Upper Story Trees The 1st layer is the tall tree canopy, the “over story”, the highest and tallest sun loving plants that begin to create shade. Canopy Trees are the Grandfathers of the Forest. They establish the heavenly boundary of the Forest and are the backbone of Forest Health. We can add new trees to this canopy, but must do so without disturbing the present ecology. Canopy trees may be deciduous, like the (Sugar) Maple that provides shelter for Ginseng; Nut- producing like the Oak; or Conifer- like Cedar and Juniper. The canopy can be as high as 80 feet. The overall height of your wooded area determines the amount of shade produced therein. Distribution of the understory layers will reflect incremental shading; ground layers will have fewer extremes in mature height. Trees that will add HERBAL value to your garden are: Red and White Oak, Poplar, Cedar, Tupelo, Slippery Elm, Prickly Ash, Ginkgo, Horse Chestnut, Cucumber Magnolia, Bay Laurel, Black Walnut, Linden, White Pine, Silver Birch, and Juniper.
Understory trees will be part of this garden too. This 2nd layer is the low tree/ high shrub layer, trees that are tolerant of partial shade and fit under the over story canopy. Many times these are fruit trees or young over story trees that will extend higher after a disturbance or an opening occurs in the canopy. Some large shrubs can be pruned to a tree form. Mulberry is an example of an understory tree, which tolerates partial shade, grows quickly, and produces well. Think also of Hawthorn, Elder, Sumac, Pomegranate, Witch Hazel, Mimosa, Sassafras, Persimmon, Black Haw, Peach, Cherry, Willow, Hazel, Vitex, and Neem.
The 3rd Layer is the Shrub Layer of the forest garden. This layer consists of both deciduous and coniferous plants which are shorter in stature and fit beneath the canopy layers. “Incremental shade” is the catch phrase of this layer- with some being tucked deeply under the canopy for full shade, while others dot the paths and enjoy more light. It should be noted that although light tolerance is specified for many plants, it may also be a requirement for other plants. Some plants require full sun or require full shade. When placing new shrubs, be mindful of this necessity for light and shade. Even though plants may tolerate greater light, they may be more productive in deeper shade- especially in areas that foster blistering summer sunshine. Hawthorn, Sumac, Witch Hazel, Elder, Mimosa, Sassafras, Pomegranate, Peach, Cherry, Willow, Hazel, Vitex, and Neem also belong in this group during their young lives. The 3rd layer may also include taller perennials such as Cup Plant and Anise Hyssop – with the additional consideration of plants such as Siberian Ginseng, American ginseng, True Solomon’s Seal, False Solomon’s seal, Mahonia, Black Cohosh, Wolf Berry, Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Dan Shen, May-apple, False Unicorn root, Licorice, and- perhaps best known- Goldenseal. Depending on your soil and shade, these plants can also inhabit the HERB Layer, below.
The 4th layer is the HERB Layer. Closer to the ground, this level provides food for animals and beneficial insects that add to the ecology of the forest. This is an area that you can plan or expand at a glance- filling in the gaps between the trees and shrubs with sunlight or shade loving HERBS. This layer has the greatest diversity based on terrain and shade level, so it is the most productive harvest layer for Medicinal HERBS. Plant density is no problem because the balance remains with the inclusion and removal of plants. This is the most straightforward level in which to facilitate your Forest Garden. Leafy HERBS, such as American ginseng, True Solomon’s Seal, False Solomon’s Seal, Yellowroot, Wild Ginger, Rhubarb, Sweet Woodruff, Trillium, Ferns, Squaw Vine, Ramps, Mahonia, Black Cohosh, Wolf Berry, Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Rehmannia, May-apple, False Unicorn root, Large-leaved Aster, Licorice, Sarsaparilla, Korean Mint, Artemisia, Ground or Princess Pine, and Goldenseal here will accommodate variations in terrain and shade.
The ground cover layer is the 5th layer in the forest garden. HERBS here hug the earth and spread laterally to cover the soil. HERBS in this layer meander within the HERBACEOUS Layer, around and about shrubs and trees, following light or shade. This is the layer that connects all others at the soil surface. Here, HERBS retain soil and lessen erosion; they provide green manures to add nutrients and organic matter to the soil- especially nitrogen. Grasses will grow here, but will not prosper due to competition from ground-hugging HERBS like Wild Ginger, Sweet Woodruff, Squawvine, Starflower, Wintergreen, Wild Strawberry, Cleavers, Thyme, Roman Chamomile, and Lady’s Bedstraw.
The 6th layer winds its way up toward the canopy. This Vine Layer utilizes the horizontal strength of the upper layers to move toward the light. Careful watch of Vining HERBS keeps them from interfering with host plants. Vines spread both laterally and horizontally-saving space. Vine crops are valued since they take little space and extend the growing area. HERBS such as Fo-ti/ He Shou Wu, Cleavers, Squawvine, Passionflower, Snakeroot, Dodder, Japanese Honeysuckle, and Virginia Creeper wind both out and up.
The 7th layer is the “Rhizosphere” or Root Layer. This interesting layer undergirds all others- nourishing, watering, aerating, storing, and spacing. Often forgotten, if the Root Layer is not considered, HERBS above cannot thrive. Roots spread in three dimensions, defining the spaces and voids of the underlayment. Roots are nutritious and dense; can be left (in situ) until needed; and convey minerals from deep soil layers to the surface. Roots are natural spacers- evening out plant populations of the upper stories. Roots may be fibrous- running close to the surface; or narrow and deep “tapping” into the lower strata. Many HERB roots grow for years before harvest. Others must be harvested annually to assure healthy plants. HERBS from any of the layers- especially roots- affect the other layers. Examples of Root HERBS are Ginseng, Black and Blue Cohosh, Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes, Bloodroot, Yellowroot, Goldenseal, False Solomon’s Seal, and Ginger.
Fungi are thought to be the Eighth Layer. Found throughout the Forest, in deepest shade, mushrooms live as saprophytes and are secondary decomposers. Many are edible; some are valued as Medicinal. Shiitake Mushrooms are found in 60% shade on oak logs. Maitake Mushrooms can be found at the base of deciduous (oak) trees. Reishi can be found at the base of large trees or fallen logs- near springs. Chaga Mushrooms are found near streams on (Yellow) Birch trees. If you have the perfect place, Medicinal mushrooms can be inoculated within your Forest Garden.
[Robert Hart, who rediscovered this ancient way of gardening - developed a seven layer forest-garden model.]
Considerations for a Forest Garden:
Height Levels: Forests have “stories.” Upper story trees knit their canopies together- providing solid shade. Understory trees benefit from that shade and provide even deeper shade for earth-loving HERBS. Leafy HERBS grow along the ground below the trees – along streams, between rocks, along pathways, and on slopes.
Thickness of the Canopy: will determine the amount of shade the garden will provide. For the most part, plants like Ginseng, Black and Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Partridgeberry, Goldenseal, May-apple, Trillium, Jiaogulan, and Mushrooms require an almost sealed canopy (heaviest shade) to develop. Shade dependent herbs can be cultivated under most deciduous trees.
Soil pH: Plants that we consider “evergreen” like Holly, Gardenia, Camellia, Magnolia, Laurel, Rhododendron, Azalea –with leathery leaves- prefer acidic pH.
“Most plant species of interest in forest farming perform best in the pH range from 5-7, but a few are “acidophiles” (acid loving) such as blueberries which prefer pH in the range of 4-5. Although H+ ion (pH) is not a nutrient per se, soil pH has important effects on availability of soil nutrients. The effects of pH on availability of Iron and Calcium in particular are of greatest consequence for Forest Farming. As pH increases, the availability of Iron declines. In sensitive species this causes interveinal chlorosis (yellowing) (e.g. pin oak, silver maple). Availability of Calcium on the other hand increases as soil pH increases from acidic to alkaline. In field agricultural systems, the pH of acidic soils are often increased by addition of lime [Ca(CO3)2] and the pH of alkaline soils is sometimes deliberately decreased (acidified) by addition of acidic organic matter such as [coffee grounds,] peat moss, or elemental sulfur (soil bacteria convert it to sulfuric acid). Deliberate alteration of soil pH is rarely practical in forest farming, but the ambient soil pH is worth knowing since it can affect your choice of non- timber forest crops. If your site is topographically variable (hilly) be sure to test pH in multiple locations since it can vary considerably between bottomland and upland soils.” [Cornell.edu]
Under coniferous forests, growth is more difficult because shade levels are too dense, the soil is too acidic, and conifer needles may be toxic to some plants.
Harvest Requirements: You should decide whether your garden will be for private enjoyment or for commercial use. This will mostly depend on how much wooded land you have available. I can think of nothing more serene than a wooded area with a small stream, several rocky paths, planted with health-giving HERBS like Black Cohosh, Goldenseal, True Solomon’s Seal, Ramps, Trillium, May-apple, and a few Ginseng. However, your property may be large enough to consider cultivation of these same plants on a commercial scale. “Forest farming” is a form of forest land management system known as “agroforestry.” It may take place in a natural forest or in a timber planting. Forest farming can be a sustainable production system which helps keep a forest healthy by introducing more biodiversity. Forest farming does not generally refer to the trees that may be grown for pulp or timber- only to the crops grown amongst the trees. Of course, many trees produce fruit, nuts, and fungi- also commercially appealing. Almost any plant or fungus that needs shade can be grown in a forest farming system. The most common crops are medicinal herbs like Ginseng, Goldenseal, Black Cohosh, Bloodroot, Passionflower, and May apple- and Mushrooms like Shiitake, Maitake, Chaga, and Reishi.
Individual Plant Needs: This can encompass degrees of shade, moisture, light, and nutrition. An ideal soil is a loam with high organic matter. Collect soil samples from prospective sites and have them analyzed for nutritional status. Our soils are often quite acid and low in phosphate. Ginseng will benefit from having the soil Ph elevated to about 5.5 and having additional phosphate added. You should also have the soil tested for nematodes. (Root knot nematodes cause galls on both ginseng and goldenseal; will slow growth of the plants; and may render the roots unsalable.)
“New plantings can be started with seeds, seedlings or cuttings from a reliable supplier. Replicate the plant’s native growing habitat as closely as possible- type of soil, garden location and watering requirements. Start any new medicinal HERB in containers placed in different locations in your Forest environment. HERBS typically perform better without any added fertilization. The key is to establish a plant- friendly soil environment and let the plant go. While we can control the growing conditions of an HERB, there are other factors that also impact the medicinal content. Wild plants typically deal with a variety of stresses, including pests, environmental toxins and root capacity competition. These stresses sometimes lead the plant to develop defense mechanisms. And these defense mechanisms can lead to the production of the substances in the plant that provide the healthy benefits to us. These stress conditions are much harder to simulate in a cultivated environment, so once they are established, you should let your HERBS go to fend for themselves. Don’t fertilize and don’t worry about pests. Resistance makes HERBS stronger.”
[Excerpted: J.D. Bell-Bell Back 400]
Remember, you don’t have to do it all at once. Forests have taken thousands of years to grow. Keep the final plant list to a minimum for the initial placement of the HERBS to help build a functional structure. After the initial 9 to 12 species are in place- including the over story HERBS, a number of HERB shrubs, companion perennial HERBS, and a groundcover HERB- other HERBS can be added.
Growing Your Forest Garden
Good News! Anyone with a bit of land can grow a forest garden. Forest gardeners use the forest as a model of structure and function, while adapting the design to focus on meeting their needs in a small space. Forest gardening is not necessarily gardening in the forest, it is gardening like the forest. Forest Gardens have been created in small urban yards and large parks, on suburban lots, and in small plots on rural farms. While you can grow a forest garden in almost any climate, it is easiest if you do it in a region where the native vegetation is forest, especially deciduous forest. You don't need to have an existing woodland if you want a forest garden; although you can certainly work with one. Creating a Forest Garden is not only ecological; it is also spiritual. Think of all those shades of Green!
HERBS OF THE FOREST- Cultivating a Forest Garden
When I am in the woods I feel serene and well. There is a special “quiet” in the forest that the soughing of trees in the breeze, the chittering critters, and the warbling birds seems to reinforce in my soul. When I walk in the forest- whether alone, with a friend or a favorite pet- I am enveloped in the music of life. Memories of childhood woodland forages, rocky forts, and quiet pools awaken in all of us possibilities that the forest can still endow. Protection of a leafy canopy provides an invitation to the maturation of many medicinal HERBS; the loamy soil provides nutrition and moisture that many HERBS love. Harvesting HERBS from the forest is a time-honored tradition that has, unfortunately become commercialized to the point that many of our most precious plants have become endangered. Harvesting forest plants has become contentious in many areas. Commercial Foragers have caused us to see our natural areas as places we want to protect, not deplete. “Forest Farming” (cultivation of understory crops within an established forest) has become prevalent since we have noticed that many HERBS have become overharvested and endangered. If you have a wooded area on your property, you might consider cultivating a naturalized HERB garden among the leafy bowers. HERB Naturals may be those you will harvest for roots; aerial parts like stems, leaves, and flowers; or fruits and nuts. You may already have HERBAL trees established in your woods; others you may want to plant.
“Anatomy” of the Forest
Stand back, and look at a forest. What do you see? Over 500 shades of green? Ah, yes. Those shades are actually delineated and perceived by varying layers of light. Light filtering through the highest plants regulates the kind, number, and diversity of plant life beneath. There are seven-some say eight- growth layers in the Forest.
Upper Story Trees The 1st layer is the tall tree canopy, the “over story”, the highest and tallest sun loving plants that begin to create shade. Canopy Trees are the Grandfathers of the Forest. They establish the heavenly boundary of the Forest and are the backbone of Forest Health. We can add new trees to this canopy, but must do so without disturbing the present ecology. Canopy trees may be deciduous, like the (Sugar) Maple that provides shelter for Ginseng; Nut- producing like the Oak; or Conifer- like Cedar and Juniper. The canopy can be as high as 80 feet. The overall height of your wooded area determines the amount of shade produced therein. Distribution of the understory layers will reflect incremental shading; ground layers will have fewer extremes in mature height. Trees that will add HERBAL value to your garden are: Red and White Oak, Poplar, Cedar, Tupelo, Slippery Elm, Prickly Ash, Ginkgo, Horse Chestnut, Cucumber Magnolia, Bay Laurel, Black Walnut, Linden, White Pine, Silver Birch, and Juniper.
Understory trees will be part of this garden too. This 2nd layer is the low tree/ high shrub layer, trees that are tolerant of partial shade and fit under the over story canopy. Many times these are fruit trees or young over story trees that will extend higher after a disturbance or an opening occurs in the canopy. Some large shrubs can be pruned to a tree form. Mulberry is an example of an understory tree, which tolerates partial shade, grows quickly, and produces well. Think also of Hawthorn, Elder, Sumac, Pomegranate, Witch Hazel, Mimosa, Sassafras, Persimmon, Black Haw, Peach, Cherry, Willow, Hazel, Vitex, and Neem.
The 3rd Layer is the Shrub Layer of the forest garden. This layer consists of both deciduous and coniferous plants which are shorter in stature and fit beneath the canopy layers. “Incremental shade” is the catch phrase of this layer- with some being tucked deeply under the canopy for full shade, while others dot the paths and enjoy more light. It should be noted that although light tolerance is specified for many plants, it may also be a requirement for other plants. Some plants require full sun or require full shade. When placing new shrubs, be mindful of this necessity for light and shade. Even though plants may tolerate greater light, they may be more productive in deeper shade- especially in areas that foster blistering summer sunshine. Hawthorn, Sumac, Witch Hazel, Elder, Mimosa, Sassafras, Pomegranate, Peach, Cherry, Willow, Hazel, Vitex, and Neem also belong in this group during their young lives. The 3rd layer may also include taller perennials such as Cup Plant and Anise Hyssop – with the additional consideration of plants such as Siberian Ginseng, American ginseng, True Solomon’s Seal, False Solomon’s seal, Mahonia, Black Cohosh, Wolf Berry, Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Dan Shen, May-apple, False Unicorn root, Licorice, and- perhaps best known- Goldenseal. Depending on your soil and shade, these plants can also inhabit the HERB Layer, below.
The 4th layer is the HERB Layer. Closer to the ground, this level provides food for animals and beneficial insects that add to the ecology of the forest. This is an area that you can plan or expand at a glance- filling in the gaps between the trees and shrubs with sunlight or shade loving HERBS. This layer has the greatest diversity based on terrain and shade level, so it is the most productive harvest layer for Medicinal HERBS. Plant density is no problem because the balance remains with the inclusion and removal of plants. This is the most straightforward level in which to facilitate your Forest Garden. Leafy HERBS, such as American ginseng, True Solomon’s Seal, False Solomon’s Seal, Yellowroot, Wild Ginger, Rhubarb, Sweet Woodruff, Trillium, Ferns, Squaw Vine, Ramps, Mahonia, Black Cohosh, Wolf Berry, Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Rehmannia, May-apple, False Unicorn root, Large-leaved Aster, Licorice, Sarsaparilla, Korean Mint, Artemisia, Ground or Princess Pine, and Goldenseal here will accommodate variations in terrain and shade.
The ground cover layer is the 5th layer in the forest garden. HERBS here hug the earth and spread laterally to cover the soil. HERBS in this layer meander within the HERBACEOUS Layer, around and about shrubs and trees, following light or shade. This is the layer that connects all others at the soil surface. Here, HERBS retain soil and lessen erosion; they provide green manures to add nutrients and organic matter to the soil- especially nitrogen. Grasses will grow here, but will not prosper due to competition from ground-hugging HERBS like Wild Ginger, Sweet Woodruff, Squawvine, Starflower, Wintergreen, Wild Strawberry, Cleavers, Thyme, Roman Chamomile, and Lady’s Bedstraw.
The 6th layer winds its way up toward the canopy. This Vine Layer utilizes the horizontal strength of the upper layers to move toward the light. Careful watch of Vining HERBS keeps them from interfering with host plants. Vines spread both laterally and horizontally-saving space. Vine crops are valued since they take little space and extend the growing area. HERBS such as Fo-ti/ He Shou Wu, Cleavers, Squawvine, Passionflower, Snakeroot, Dodder, Japanese Honeysuckle, and Virginia Creeper wind both out and up.
The 7th layer is the “Rhizosphere” or Root Layer. This interesting layer undergirds all others- nourishing, watering, aerating, storing, and spacing. Often forgotten, if the Root Layer is not considered, HERBS above cannot thrive. Roots spread in three dimensions, defining the spaces and voids of the underlayment. Roots are nutritious and dense; can be left (in situ) until needed; and convey minerals from deep soil layers to the surface. Roots are natural spacers- evening out plant populations of the upper stories. Roots may be fibrous- running close to the surface; or narrow and deep “tapping” into the lower strata. Many HERB roots grow for years before harvest. Others must be harvested annually to assure healthy plants. HERBS from any of the layers- especially roots- affect the other layers. Examples of Root HERBS are Ginseng, Black and Blue Cohosh, Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes, Bloodroot, Yellowroot, Goldenseal, False Solomon’s Seal, and Ginger.
Fungi are thought to be the Eighth Layer. Found throughout the Forest, in deepest shade, mushrooms live as saprophytes and are secondary decomposers. Many are edible; some are valued as Medicinal. Shiitake Mushrooms are found in 60% shade on oak logs. Maitake Mushrooms can be found at the base of deciduous (oak) trees. Reishi can be found at the base of large trees or fallen logs- near springs. Chaga Mushrooms are found near streams on (Yellow) Birch trees. If you have the perfect place, Medicinal mushrooms can be inoculated within your Forest Garden.
[Robert Hart, who rediscovered this ancient way of gardening - developed a seven layer forest-garden model.]
Considerations for a Forest Garden:
Height Levels: Forests have “stories.” Upper story trees knit their canopies together- providing solid shade. Understory trees benefit from that shade and provide even deeper shade for earth-loving HERBS. Leafy HERBS grow along the ground below the trees – along streams, between rocks, along pathways, and on slopes.
Thickness of the Canopy: will determine the amount of shade the garden will provide. For the most part, plants like Ginseng, Black and Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Partridgeberry, Goldenseal, May-apple, Trillium, Jiaogulan, and Mushrooms require an almost sealed canopy (heaviest shade) to develop. Shade dependent herbs can be cultivated under most deciduous trees.
Soil pH: Plants that we consider “evergreen” like Holly, Gardenia, Camellia, Magnolia, Laurel, Rhododendron, Azalea –with leathery leaves- prefer acidic pH.
“Most plant species of interest in forest farming perform best in the pH range from 5-7, but a few are “acidophiles” (acid loving) such as blueberries which prefer pH in the range of 4-5. Although H+ ion (pH) is not a nutrient per se, soil pH has important effects on availability of soil nutrients. The effects of pH on availability of Iron and Calcium in particular are of greatest consequence for Forest Farming. As pH increases, the availability of Iron declines. In sensitive species this causes interveinal chlorosis (yellowing) (e.g. pin oak, silver maple). Availability of Calcium on the other hand increases as soil pH increases from acidic to alkaline. In field agricultural systems, the pH of acidic soils are often increased by addition of lime [Ca(CO3)2] and the pH of alkaline soils is sometimes deliberately decreased (acidified) by addition of acidic organic matter such as [coffee grounds,] peat moss, or elemental sulfur (soil bacteria convert it to sulfuric acid). Deliberate alteration of soil pH is rarely practical in forest farming, but the ambient soil pH is worth knowing since it can affect your choice of non- timber forest crops. If your site is topographically variable (hilly) be sure to test pH in multiple locations since it can vary considerably between bottomland and upland soils.” [Cornell.edu]
Under coniferous forests, growth is more difficult because shade levels are too dense, the soil is too acidic, and conifer needles may be toxic to some plants.
Harvest Requirements: You should decide whether your garden will be for private enjoyment or for commercial use. This will mostly depend on how much wooded land you have available. I can think of nothing more serene than a wooded area with a small stream, several rocky paths, planted with health-giving HERBS like Black Cohosh, Goldenseal, True Solomon’s Seal, Ramps, Trillium, May-apple, and a few Ginseng. However, your property may be large enough to consider cultivation of these same plants on a commercial scale. “Forest farming” is a form of forest land management system known as “agroforestry.” It may take place in a natural forest or in a timber planting. Forest farming can be a sustainable production system which helps keep a forest healthy by introducing more biodiversity. Forest farming does not generally refer to the trees that may be grown for pulp or timber- only to the crops grown amongst the trees. Of course, many trees produce fruit, nuts, and fungi- also commercially appealing. Almost any plant or fungus that needs shade can be grown in a forest farming system. The most common crops are medicinal herbs like Ginseng, Goldenseal, Black Cohosh, Bloodroot, Passionflower, and May apple- and Mushrooms like Shiitake, Maitake, Chaga, and Reishi.
Individual Plant Needs: This can encompass degrees of shade, moisture, light, and nutrition. An ideal soil is a loam with high organic matter. Collect soil samples from prospective sites and have them analyzed for nutritional status. Our soils are often quite acid and low in phosphate. Ginseng will benefit from having the soil Ph elevated to about 5.5 and having additional phosphate added. You should also have the soil tested for nematodes. (Root knot nematodes cause galls on both ginseng and goldenseal; will slow growth of the plants; and may render the roots unsalable.)
“New plantings can be started with seeds, seedlings or cuttings from a reliable supplier. Replicate the plant’s native growing habitat as closely as possible- type of soil, garden location and watering requirements. Start any new medicinal HERB in containers placed in different locations in your Forest environment. HERBS typically perform better without any added fertilization. The key is to establish a plant- friendly soil environment and let the plant go. While we can control the growing conditions of an HERB, there are other factors that also impact the medicinal content. Wild plants typically deal with a variety of stresses, including pests, environmental toxins and root capacity competition. These stresses sometimes lead the plant to develop defense mechanisms. And these defense mechanisms can lead to the production of the substances in the plant that provide the healthy benefits to us. These stress conditions are much harder to simulate in a cultivated environment, so once they are established, you should let your HERBS go to fend for themselves. Don’t fertilize and don’t worry about pests. Resistance makes HERBS stronger.”
[Excerpted: J.D. Bell-Bell Back 400]
Remember, you don’t have to do it all at once. Forests have taken thousands of years to grow. Keep the final plant list to a minimum for the initial placement of the HERBS to help build a functional structure. After the initial 9 to 12 species are in place- including the over story HERBS, a number of HERB shrubs, companion perennial HERBS, and a groundcover HERB- other HERBS can be added.
Growing Your Forest Garden
Good News! Anyone with a bit of land can grow a forest garden. Forest gardeners use the forest as a model of structure and function, while adapting the design to focus on meeting their needs in a small space. Forest gardening is not necessarily gardening in the forest, it is gardening like the forest. Forest Gardens have been created in small urban yards and large parks, on suburban lots, and in small plots on rural farms. While you can grow a forest garden in almost any climate, it is easiest if you do it in a region where the native vegetation is forest, especially deciduous forest. You don't need to have an existing woodland if you want a forest garden; although you can certainly work with one. Creating a Forest Garden is not only ecological; it is also spiritual. Think of all those shades of Green!
When I am in the woods I feel serene and well. There is a special “quiet” in the forest that the soughing of trees in the breeze, the chittering critters, and the warbling birds seems to reinforce in my soul. When I walk in the forest- whether alone, with a friend or a favorite pet- I am enveloped in the music of life. Memories of childhood woodland forages, rocky forts, and quiet pools awaken in all of us possibilities that the forest can still endow. Protection of a leafy canopy provides an invitation to the maturation of many medicinal HERBS; the loamy soil provides nutrition and moisture that many HERBS love. Harvesting HERBS from the forest is a time-honored tradition that has, unfortunately become commercialized to the point that many of our most precious plants have become endangered. Harvesting forest plants has become contentious in many areas. Commercial Foragers have caused us to see our natural areas as places we want to protect, not deplete. “Forest Farming” (cultivation of understory crops within an established forest) has become prevalent since we have noticed that many HERBS have become overharvested and endangered. If you have a wooded area on your property, you might consider cultivating a naturalized HERB garden among the leafy bowers. HERB Naturals may be those you will harvest for roots; aerial parts like stems, leaves, and flowers; or fruits and nuts. You may already have HERBAL trees established in your woods; others you may want to plant.
“Anatomy” of the Forest
Stand back, and look at a forest. What do you see? Over 500 shades of green? Ah, yes. Those shades are actually delineated and perceived by varying layers of light. Light filtering through the highest plants regulates the kind, number, and diversity of plant life beneath. There are seven-some say eight- growth layers in the Forest.
Upper Story Trees The 1st layer is the tall tree canopy, the “over story”, the highest and tallest sun loving plants that begin to create shade. Canopy Trees are the Grandfathers of the Forest. They establish the heavenly boundary of the Forest and are the backbone of Forest Health. We can add new trees to this canopy, but must do so without disturbing the present ecology. Canopy trees may be deciduous, like the (Sugar) Maple that provides shelter for Ginseng; Nut- producing like the Oak; or Conifer- like Cedar and Juniper. The canopy can be as high as 80 feet. The overall height of your wooded area determines the amount of shade produced therein. Distribution of the understory layers will reflect incremental shading; ground layers will have fewer extremes in mature height. Trees that will add HERBAL value to your garden are: Red and White Oak, Poplar, Cedar, Tupelo, Slippery Elm, Prickly Ash, Ginkgo, Horse Chestnut, Cucumber Magnolia, Bay Laurel, Black Walnut, Linden, White Pine, Silver Birch, and Juniper.
Understory trees will be part of this garden too. This 2nd layer is the low tree/ high shrub layer, trees that are tolerant of partial shade and fit under the over story canopy. Many times these are fruit trees or young over story trees that will extend higher after a disturbance or an opening occurs in the canopy. Some large shrubs can be pruned to a tree form. Mulberry is an example of an understory tree, which tolerates partial shade, grows quickly, and produces well. Think also of Hawthorn, Elder, Sumac, Pomegranate, Witch Hazel, Mimosa, Sassafras, Persimmon, Black Haw, Peach, Cherry, Willow, Hazel, Vitex, and Neem.
The 3rd Layer is the Shrub Layer of the forest garden. This layer consists of both deciduous and coniferous plants which are shorter in stature and fit beneath the canopy layers. “Incremental shade” is the catch phrase of this layer- with some being tucked deeply under the canopy for full shade, while others dot the paths and enjoy more light. It should be noted that although light tolerance is specified for many plants, it may also be a requirement for other plants. Some plants require full sun or require full shade. When placing new shrubs, be mindful of this necessity for light and shade. Even though plants may tolerate greater light, they may be more productive in deeper shade- especially in areas that foster blistering summer sunshine. Hawthorn, Sumac, Witch Hazel, Elder, Mimosa, Sassafras, Pomegranate, Peach, Cherry, Willow, Hazel, Vitex, and Neem also belong in this group during their young lives. The 3rd layer may also include taller perennials such as Cup Plant and Anise Hyssop – with the additional consideration of plants such as Siberian Ginseng, American ginseng, True Solomon’s Seal, False Solomon’s seal, Mahonia, Black Cohosh, Wolf Berry, Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Dan Shen, May-apple, False Unicorn root, Licorice, and- perhaps best known- Goldenseal. Depending on your soil and shade, these plants can also inhabit the HERB Layer, below.
The 4th layer is the HERB Layer. Closer to the ground, this level provides food for animals and beneficial insects that add to the ecology of the forest. This is an area that you can plan or expand at a glance- filling in the gaps between the trees and shrubs with sunlight or shade loving HERBS. This layer has the greatest diversity based on terrain and shade level, so it is the most productive harvest layer for Medicinal HERBS. Plant density is no problem because the balance remains with the inclusion and removal of plants. This is the most straightforward level in which to facilitate your Forest Garden. Leafy HERBS, such as American ginseng, True Solomon’s Seal, False Solomon’s Seal, Yellowroot, Wild Ginger, Rhubarb, Sweet Woodruff, Trillium, Ferns, Squaw Vine, Ramps, Mahonia, Black Cohosh, Wolf Berry, Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Rehmannia, May-apple, False Unicorn root, Large-leaved Aster, Licorice, Sarsaparilla, Korean Mint, Artemisia, Ground or Princess Pine, and Goldenseal here will accommodate variations in terrain and shade.
The ground cover layer is the 5th layer in the forest garden. HERBS here hug the earth and spread laterally to cover the soil. HERBS in this layer meander within the HERBACEOUS Layer, around and about shrubs and trees, following light or shade. This is the layer that connects all others at the soil surface. Here, HERBS retain soil and lessen erosion; they provide green manures to add nutrients and organic matter to the soil- especially nitrogen. Grasses will grow here, but will not prosper due to competition from ground-hugging HERBS like Wild Ginger, Sweet Woodruff, Squawvine, Starflower, Wintergreen, Wild Strawberry, Cleavers, Thyme, Roman Chamomile, and Lady’s Bedstraw.
The 6th layer winds its way up toward the canopy. This Vine Layer utilizes the horizontal strength of the upper layers to move toward the light. Careful watch of Vining HERBS keeps them from interfering with host plants. Vines spread both laterally and horizontally-saving space. Vine crops are valued since they take little space and extend the growing area. HERBS such as Fo-ti/ He Shou Wu, Cleavers, Squawvine, Passionflower, Snakeroot, Dodder, Japanese Honeysuckle, and Virginia Creeper wind both out and up.
The 7th layer is the “Rhizosphere” or Root Layer. This interesting layer undergirds all others- nourishing, watering, aerating, storing, and spacing. Often forgotten, if the Root Layer is not considered, HERBS above cannot thrive. Roots spread in three dimensions, defining the spaces and voids of the underlayment. Roots are nutritious and dense; can be left (in situ) until needed; and convey minerals from deep soil layers to the surface. Roots are natural spacers- evening out plant populations of the upper stories. Roots may be fibrous- running close to the surface; or narrow and deep “tapping” into the lower strata. Many HERB roots grow for years before harvest. Others must be harvested annually to assure healthy plants. HERBS from any of the layers- especially roots- affect the other layers. Examples of Root HERBS are Ginseng, Black and Blue Cohosh, Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes, Bloodroot, Yellowroot, Goldenseal, False Solomon’s Seal, and Ginger.
Fungi are thought to be the Eighth Layer. Found throughout the Forest, in deepest shade, mushrooms live as saprophytes and are secondary decomposers. Many are edible; some are valued as Medicinal. Shiitake Mushrooms are found in 60% shade on oak logs. Maitake Mushrooms can be found at the base of deciduous (oak) trees. Reishi can be found at the base of large trees or fallen logs- near springs. Chaga Mushrooms are found near streams on (Yellow) Birch trees. If you have the perfect place, Medicinal mushrooms can be inoculated within your Forest Garden.
[Robert Hart, who rediscovered this ancient way of gardening - developed a seven layer forest-garden model.]
Considerations for a Forest Garden:
Height Levels: Forests have “stories.” Upper story trees knit their canopies together- providing solid shade. Understory trees benefit from that shade and provide even deeper shade for earth-loving HERBS. Leafy HERBS grow along the ground below the trees – along streams, between rocks, along pathways, and on slopes.
Thickness of the Canopy: will determine the amount of shade the garden will provide. For the most part, plants like Ginseng, Black and Blue Cohosh, Bloodroot, Partridgeberry, Goldenseal, May-apple, Trillium, Jiaogulan, and Mushrooms require an almost sealed canopy (heaviest shade) to develop. Shade dependent herbs can be cultivated under most deciduous trees.
Soil pH: Plants that we consider “evergreen” like Holly, Gardenia, Camellia, Magnolia, Laurel, Rhododendron, Azalea –with leathery leaves- prefer acidic pH.
“Most plant species of interest in forest farming perform best in the pH range from 5-7, but a few are “acidophiles” (acid loving) such as blueberries which prefer pH in the range of 4-5. Although H+ ion (pH) is not a nutrient per se, soil pH has important effects on availability of soil nutrients. The effects of pH on availability of Iron and Calcium in particular are of greatest consequence for Forest Farming. As pH increases, the availability of Iron declines. In sensitive species this causes interveinal chlorosis (yellowing) (e.g. pin oak, silver maple). Availability of Calcium on the other hand increases as soil pH increases from acidic to alkaline. In field agricultural systems, the pH of acidic soils are often increased by addition of lime [Ca(CO3)2] and the pH of alkaline soils is sometimes deliberately decreased (acidified) by addition of acidic organic matter such as [coffee grounds,] peat moss, or elemental sulfur (soil bacteria convert it to sulfuric acid). Deliberate alteration of soil pH is rarely practical in forest farming, but the ambient soil pH is worth knowing since it can affect your choice of non- timber forest crops. If your site is topographically variable (hilly) be sure to test pH in multiple locations since it can vary considerably between bottomland and upland soils.” [Cornell.edu]
Under coniferous forests, growth is more difficult because shade levels are too dense, the soil is too acidic, and conifer needles may be toxic to some plants.
Harvest Requirements: You should decide whether your garden will be for private enjoyment or for commercial use. This will mostly depend on how much wooded land you have available. I can think of nothing more serene than a wooded area with a small stream, several rocky paths, planted with health-giving HERBS like Black Cohosh, Goldenseal, True Solomon’s Seal, Ramps, Trillium, May-apple, and a few Ginseng. However, your property may be large enough to consider cultivation of these same plants on a commercial scale. “Forest farming” is a form of forest land management system known as “agroforestry.” It may take place in a natural forest or in a timber planting. Forest farming can be a sustainable production system which helps keep a forest healthy by introducing more biodiversity. Forest farming does not generally refer to the trees that may be grown for pulp or timber- only to the crops grown amongst the trees. Of course, many trees produce fruit, nuts, and fungi- also commercially appealing. Almost any plant or fungus that needs shade can be grown in a forest farming system. The most common crops are medicinal herbs like Ginseng, Goldenseal, Black Cohosh, Bloodroot, Passionflower, and May apple- and Mushrooms like Shiitake, Maitake, Chaga, and Reishi.
Individual Plant Needs: This can encompass degrees of shade, moisture, light, and nutrition. An ideal soil is a loam with high organic matter. Collect soil samples from prospective sites and have them analyzed for nutritional status. Our soils are often quite acid and low in phosphate. Ginseng will benefit from having the soil Ph elevated to about 5.5 and having additional phosphate added. You should also have the soil tested for nematodes. (Root knot nematodes cause galls on both ginseng and goldenseal; will slow growth of the plants; and may render the roots unsalable.)
“New plantings can be started with seeds, seedlings or cuttings from a reliable supplier. Replicate the plant’s native growing habitat as closely as possible- type of soil, garden location and watering requirements. Start any new medicinal HERB in containers placed in different locations in your Forest environment. HERBS typically perform better without any added fertilization. The key is to establish a plant- friendly soil environment and let the plant go. While we can control the growing conditions of an HERB, there are other factors that also impact the medicinal content. Wild plants typically deal with a variety of stresses, including pests, environmental toxins and root capacity competition. These stresses sometimes lead the plant to develop defense mechanisms. And these defense mechanisms can lead to the production of the substances in the plant that provide the healthy benefits to us. These stress conditions are much harder to simulate in a cultivated environment, so once they are established, you should let your HERBS go to fend for themselves. Don’t fertilize and don’t worry about pests. Resistance makes HERBS stronger.”
[Excerpted: J.D. Bell-Bell Back 400]
Remember, you don’t have to do it all at once. Forests have taken thousands of years to grow. Keep the final plant list to a minimum for the initial placement of the HERBS to help build a functional structure. After the initial 9 to 12 species are in place- including the over story HERBS, a number of HERB shrubs, companion perennial HERBS, and a groundcover HERB- other HERBS can be added.
Growing Your Forest Garden
Good News! Anyone with a bit of land can grow a forest garden. Forest gardeners use the forest as a model of structure and function, while adapting the design to focus on meeting their needs in a small space. Forest gardening is not necessarily gardening in the forest, it is gardening like the forest. Forest Gardens have been created in small urban yards and large parks, on suburban lots, and in small plots on rural farms. While you can grow a forest garden in almost any climate, it is easiest if you do it in a region where the native vegetation is forest, especially deciduous forest. You don't need to have an existing woodland if you want a forest garden; although you can certainly work with one. Creating a Forest Garden is not only ecological; it is also spiritual. Think of all those shades of Green!